The walk through Samaria gorge is much talked about, but what you don't hear about is the ferry ride you must take from Agia Roumeli. The mountains are so fierce on this southern stretch of Crete that no roads connect the area to the rest of the island. To make the connection you must ferry either east to Sfakion or west to Paleohora. For me this was the best part. The coastline is completely wild, the colour of the Libian sea is electrifiying, and the ferryboat staff are absolute cowboys.
"So, where do we catch the boat?"
"Down on the beach."
"Okay, thanks."
"No, seriously right from the sand"
I tried to imagine how a ferry the size we would need to carry all the hikers milling aound me would beach in such an angry sea, but the boat pulled in and dropped its ramp on the beach and hundreds of us streamed on to watch the scenery float by. Arriving in Sfakion the ramp yawned open again spitting us rather terrifyingly onto a sea beaten pier.
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