What's on in Greece

The wildflowers this time of year continuously stop me dead in my tracks. It seems that the higher we get in the mountains, the more spectacular the display. Here are just a few close ups of some of the daily dazzlers

Sleepless in Greece

If there was any swine flu in me then the winds that whipped the Arkadian coastline yesterday have surely blown it right out of me. Mounting our heavily laden steeds to wheel away from the hospitality of our beloved friends Helen and Christopher in Xiropigado, the wind that welcomed us was even more defeating than relearning to push an impressively loaded bike up a mountain. So,we rode to the next town for a looong lunch.


Pork chops were a popular choice amongst the local diners. Clearly the fear of swine flu had not struck nearly as hard as CNN would like or as deeply as it had stung me. I'm not usually one to jump on board with global paranoia, but having just spent the better part of the last month getting from Mexico to Greece in one of the most circuitous routes I've ever travelled, I was a smidge concerned. Seven airports, 6 buses, a ferry, and a handful of NYC subway trips I had quite the potential to either infect or be infected by a lot of people. My last day in an airport and on a bus was the day the WHO announcement went out. Miraculously I felt fine which is rare after anything more than one flight or one long bus ride. Since I met Mexico my immune system has become such that I will pick up any lurking, cold, flu, salmonella, e coli, amebiasis, or typhoid that crosses my path.

So, several days have passed and I haven't been taken by swine flu. Therefore, Atlanta, Denver, Salt Lake City, San Francisco, Victoria, Vancouver, Seattle, New York, Athens, and Xiropigado are free of Swine Flu a la Alix.






And now on to more important things...

I have been reminded that one of my favourite rides in Greece is along the coast between Xiropigado and Leonidio. Here the stony mountains of coastal Arkadia plunge dramatically into the Argholikos Gulf. Settlements nestle themselves onto any narrow slip of land afforded by the tight relationship between mountains and sea. Greek fishing boats have been replaced by apartments and homes tacked into impossible places with the hopes of luring the dollars that come with holiday getaways. Our road hugs the water dazzling us with precipitous drops and smooth curves. I am thrilled to be sleeping outside again even if my EXPED mattress has failed me for the fifth time and my new MONTBELL down sleeping bag seems to be missing some strategic down. Fortunately, the night my EXPED mattress failed, it was warm enough for my flimsy MONTBELL Down Hugger #5 sleeping bag and all my clothes to allow me to catch barely a few winks. I can't say the same for when overnight temps get down to 8C. The mattress still holds but the threat of another seam blowout is unsettling and the sleeping bag....grr@*!#RR!

Delicious thistle buds

Sitting in the passenger seat of Christofer's car I squint to make out what the familiar shapes were that were nearly bursting out of the back of the rickety old pick up in front of us. Artichokes! A whole truck full of artichokes! I can't believe my eyes. I remembered seeing these spartan looking plants in Kevin's garden years back, but to see so many spilling out of the back of an old pickup seemed absurd to me. 2 Euros buys me about 15 massive artichokes and a lot more work than I anticipate, but well worth every second.

Seeing Athens

No trip to Athens is complete without a trip downtown for a little taste of thens across the ages. I especially like the old lady in black lighting a cigarette with the boys in the background. The quantity of smoking here is downright medieval. It seems they have only just barely left behind the medievl philosophy of putting their newborns in smoky cubby holes next to the fireplace to protect them from evil spirits. What I am meaning to say is that the first thing that overwhelms you about Greece is how much these people smoke

A plateful of Koukia

Koukia, or the fava bean, I had no idea how tasty this Mediterranean symbol of spring harvest could be. We were fortunate enough to arrive at George and Sandra's just in time to enjoy a fava and potato stew fresh from George's garden.

Originally from North Africa, fava beans in a dish known as ful medames is Egypt's number one breakfast item. In Southern Europe, the lowly fava, which grows heartily between early spring and late summer, has saved many a region from famine.

Having had George's fava stew I know that fava will definitely feature in my future dream garden.

Lemons, I've got lemons

I've mentioned in the past the whole lemon and lime debacle in Mexico. Now, Mexico calls limes lemons which in my mind is criminal because a lime is a lime and a lemon is a lemon and they both have their own magic - so stop trying to pass one off as the other! With one taste of the lemons that come fresh off the tree hanging in Helen's garden in Xiropigado, no self-respecting Mexican could ever go back to calling a lime a lemon. And when that day comes Christofer is ready to build a lemon empire in lemon deprived Mexico. For now I propose, simple breakfast of fresh squeezed lemonade with a bowl of strained yogurt smothered in fir honey and topped with almonds and a squeeze of lemon? So simple. So delightful! A natural accompaniment would be a little side dish of Zorba.

Arriving Xiropigado

What a lovely thing it is, after nearly a month of mishap filled travel, to arrive at Helen's Apartments in Xiropigado and to discover that there is still a little bit of Greek Easter left in Helen's ceramic bunny basket. A double surprise were the Easter dinner leftovers on my plate. Thanks to Helen and Christopher for hosting me in my obscenely sleep deprived and jet lagged state.